What cooker can I get installed?

Question

Happy to send photos but we want a dual fuel cooker but unsure if we have the right installation? There is a plug socket, a gas pipe and a big white switch, any help?

Roger · Answer

It sounds like you might already have what’s needed for a dual fuel cooker. The plug socket powers the electric oven or ignition, the gas pipe supplies the hob, and the big white switch is likely the cooker isolation switch for safety.

To be sure, you should send photos to a Gas Safe registered engineer — they can confirm whether the existing setup is suitable and safe before installation.

Harley · Answer

Yes, from what you’ve described it *sounds promising* for a dual fuel cooker, but a couple of things need confirming.

A **dual fuel cooker** uses:

* **Gas** for the hob
* **Electric** for the oven and internal components (fan, clock, ignition, etc.)

### What you’ve got

**Gas pipe** – That’s what supplies the hob. As long as it’s an accessible cooker point (usually with a bayonet fitting or isolation valve), that’s what’s needed. The final connection **must be done by a Gas Safe engineer**.

**Big white switch** – This is very likely a **cooker isolation switch**. That’s a good sign. These are normally connected to a **dedicated cooker circuit** from the consumer unit.

**Plug socket** – This may or may not be relevant. Some cookers have a normal 13A plug just for ignition/controls, but many dual fuel cookers still need a **hard-wired electrical supply** for the oven element.

The key thing that matters

The important question is what that cooker switch is fed by.

Most dual fuel cookers need a **proper cooker circuit**, usually:

* 6mm² cable
* On a **32A breaker** in the consumer unit
* Connected via the cooker switch and outlet plate

If that’s in place, you can install **most standard dual fuel cookers** without issue.

If the oven power rating is **under about 3kW**, some models can run from a normal plug, but many are higher than that — especially range-style cookers — and **cannot safely run off a standard socket circuit**.

### So in summary

Gas pipe present → good for the hob
 Cooker switch on wall → likely the correct electrical supply
 Socket → may just be extra, not the main feed

You’re probably set up for a dual fuel cooker **as long as** the cooker switch is on a proper cooker circuit. An electrician can confirm this in a few minutes, and the gas side must be connected and tested by Gas Safe.

If it turns out the circuit isn’t suitable, it’s still fixable — it just means running a new cooker supply from the consumer unit.

Michael · Answer

Hi, 
The gas will be for the hob, ( top part) & socket for the spark to lite the gas.
The big Switch is for the oven. Will be for the oven.

Ali · Answer

Some thing need to be checked by electrician to find out the cable size and Amp so you decide what cooker you install.

Phil · Answer

Do you have a circuit breaker marked "cooker" in your consumer unit? Presumably you will be having a gas hob and electric oven setup?

Allan · Answer

Hi depends on size of cooker to see if cable is large enough. Also connection plate needs to be checked also. Hope this helps

Ismail · Answer

You will need a qualified electrician for the electrical part

A gas safe plumber for the plumbing part

Peter · Answer

It sounds like you have the "holy trinity" of kitchen connections, which is great news—it means your kitchen was likely designed to handle almost any type of cooker.

Here is what those three things are and what they mean for your dual fuel installation:

1. The "Big White Switch" (The Isolator)
This is almost certainly a 45-Amp Cooker Switch. Its job is to provide a way to completely cut the power to a high-heat appliance in an emergency or for maintenance.

The Good News: This means you have a dedicated, heavy-duty electrical circuit (usually 6mm or 10mm cabling) running from your fuse box. This is essential for dual fuel cookers because while the hob uses gas, the large electric ovens (especially if they have a grill) can draw a lot of power—more than a standard plug can handle.

2. The Plug Socket
You might be wondering why you have a big switch and a plug socket.

Scenario A: The socket is just a standard kitchen outlet for a kettle or toaster.

Scenario B: Some dual fuel cookers (especially smaller 60cm models) are "Low Power" and only need a 13-Amp plug for the oven and the spark ignition for the gas.

Scenario C: Some "Cooker Control Units" have the big switch and a plug socket built into the same faceplate.

3. The Gas Pipe
This is the standard supply for your hob. In the UK, this should end in a "Bayonet Fitting" (a brass-colored socket on the wall).

Iulian Andrei · Answer

You can have a 7.2kw maximum cooker . Or under 7.2kw

What cooker can I get installed?

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