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I have just bought an acrylic worktop for my kitchen. I don't have any experience cutting acrylic kitchen worktops. I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice or know what the difference is with cutting acrylic compared to wood. Is it easy enough or am i going to need to hire someone that specialises in acrylic worktops?
My builders did the paving stones patio, edges fixed in the mortar. However, they didn't put the edging aligned with the house but 10-20cm away from the wall (different distance in different places). I'm worried that in case of rain it's going to fill with water. It seems to me like they squared it so it was easier for them to lay it and they don't have to cut it. They say that's the reason it's supposed to be done, but no logical explanation. I'm not a specialist, but is there any other reason why it was done this way?
We have a leak and invited a roofer to repair who quickly recommended changing the flashing around the chimney stack. It has improved but continues to rain in but the roofer has advised he can't identify the source of the leak even though we have made some suggestions. Should it be so hard to find? The leak is all around the stack.
We are replacing a 3kw single oven with a 3.6kw single oven. The current oven is simply plugged in. Can we do the same with the new oven? If not how much will it cost to convert the existing socket to one suitable for a 3.6 kW oven?
Had some vinyl installed, but the gap between the skirting board and floor is bit too much. They're use some type of glue, but is there something else (better looking!) I can use
I’m looking to raise part of the ceiling in my kitchen, it’s not under a bedroom or other room as it’s in part of the front of the house that sticks out separately, almost like a front extension(?). It’s maybe a foot lower than the rest of the room and there’s one dividing wall to take into account. Would this be a fairly straightforward job or even possible?
The u-bend beneath the kitchen sink is leaking. Now I’ve found the boiler isn’t heating. Could the leak in the u-bend have caused my boiler to lose pressure? The boiler is nearby in the kitchen.
I have some building experience – was suspicious of Damp Proof Courses from a structural viewpoint, but I’d like to be sure if this is the case. I’ve has some experience with building work in the past and have heard about various issues with using DPC’s. I know they are typically just black plastic sheets between brick/stonework a few courses up from the foundation, to stop the damp rising from the ground up, but I don’t know how much of a problem this really is. I’ve been told about they can cause a wall that is in construction to be knocked over with a small bump. It worries me that the wall integrity is affected by these sheets. It worries me how easy they can cause a wall to be shifted – I don’t want to use them if they are an additional risk. Does anyone know any more about whether DPC’s compromise the integrity of the walls? Have you had any issues that they have caused? Are they worthwhile for the sake of just avoiding damp?
Can anyone tell me what difference there is between having flue and flueless gas fires? I have recently removed an old gas fire from my house and now have a gap. I want to install a modern gas fire in the space, but I don’t know what difference it would be if it is flue or flueless. Is it related to the chimney pipe up to the chimney from the fire? Can anyone advise me on here, please?
I've just noticed that 4 of the double glazed windows in my mums bungalow have condensation inside. They arent that old and appear to be in good condition apart from the condensation. Is there anything that can be done to remove it or do the windows need to be replaced?
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