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Hi. Looking to get some advice on running power to a garden shed An uninsulated shed is around 25 meters from the rear of the house and the consumer unit/fuse box is at the front of the house which has no side access. Looking for advice on whether it is possible or advisable to run power from the kitchen to an uninsulated shed and what a ballpark might be for what is required. Have heard people say I could run power from the kitchen and run to another consumer unit in the shed. No idea if that’s correct…I have no electrical knowledge and would obviously get someone in. I may look in a few years to build a garden office but want a couple of sockets in the shed for power. Would be grateful for pointers and an idea on cost. If did the trench to the shed to save time and cost.
I have bought some Lightweight polystyrene coving to finish my living room off but I am having problems when it comes to mitering the Internal corners. I have already wasted one length of Coving and don't want to attempt to try again. I have four Internal corners in my living room. Can someone give me a rough Idea of how much it will cost for someone to Mitre the corners for me only? I don't have a problem Installing the rest of it and only need the corners done.
I want to replace my shower curtain with a more attractive shower screen. How difficult are they to install and is this something I could do myself or should I get someone in to do it? If I do get someone in, what sort of cost am I looking at (both for the screen and labour costs)? Thanks.
Recently we have had one of our bedrooms re-plastered by a professional plasterer and decorator, but I’ve begun to notice that some of the areas are looking quite poorly done and not coated particularly thickly. Evident around plug sockets, switches and other fixtures in particular. It appears to be one layer of plaster that has been used. Is this normal for plasterwork nowadays? I recall that in previous years, plasterers would use two layers, but perhaps things have changed. I would like to know for sure, so that I know whether I will need to contact the plaster regarding their work. I would appreciate any information about this.
how much of a deposit should I expect to pay up front for work and how long before should I pay this
Our patio door installer made a mistake when ordering our doors. We wanted them to open left-to-right, but he installed them right-to-left. We believe he ordered the wrong ones. When we pointed out the mistake, he came back the next day and turned the whole thing (doors and frame) around. My question is whether these doors will now meet building regulations? The sliding door and track is on the outside and the screws on the handle plate are on the outside. We noticed during the recent storms that the weep holes were on the inside. The fitter came and filled these in and drilled new ones on the outside of the door. This just doesn' feel right to me.
Can my neighbour cut our boundary hedge without my permission?
How much would I be expecting to pay to install 2 internal doors with new architrave and fittings. I have the doors and handles. In the Manchester area
I have just bought an acrylic worktop for my kitchen. I don't have any experience cutting acrylic kitchen worktops. I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice or know what the difference is with cutting acrylic compared to wood. Is it easy enough or am i going to need to hire someone that specialises in acrylic worktops?
My builders did the paving stones patio, edges fixed in the mortar. However, they didn't put the edging aligned with the house but 10-20cm away from the wall (different distance in different places). I'm worried that in case of rain it's going to fill with water. It seems to me like they squared it so it was easier for them to lay it and they don't have to cut it. They say that's the reason it's supposed to be done, but no logical explanation. I'm not a specialist, but is there any other reason why it was done this way?
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