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  • Cost of Laying Turf

    The cost of laying turf is around £15 per m2. But this can vary depending on what type of grass you choose, how large your garden is and where your home is within the country. Carry on reading this guide to find out everything you need to know on the cost of laying turf.

    The Average Cost of Laying Turf per m2:

    The typical time it takes to lay turf for a 100m2 garden is 3 days.

    £15

    How Much Does Turf Cost?

    If you’re looking to turf your garden and want to work out a rough budget, there are several variables which you’ll need to consider.

    Firstly, and perhaps most obviously, you need to know how big the area is that you want to turf. If your garden is an exact square, 10 x 10m, then you’ll need 100m2 turf.

    But most people will have a much more oddly shaped garden and will want to add a few extra metres of turf in case of cutting mistakes, mismeasurement etc. If your garden is hard to measure, you’re better over-guessing quantities than under.

    To calculate the area of a roughly square or rectangular garden, multiply the width in metres by the length in metres. To calculate a different shape, use the following rules.

    To calculate the area of a triangle, you multiply the length of one side by the length of the distance to the point on the line perpendicular to it. Then divide your answer by 2.

    So, to work out an odd area, you will have to add up a combination of shapes.

    Secondly, lawn turf prices will make an enormous difference. You can expect to pay anywhere between £2.40 and £6.90 per m2, which means that 100m2 will cost you between £240 and £690.

    The difference in cost is due to the composition of the grass – and the composition you choose will depend on your requirements. A hardwearing turf is a great choice for gardens with rough and tumble children, energetic dogs and sporty families.

    However, someone who wants the beauty of a perfect lawn will want a more luxurious composition. A good quality grass will be a blend of meadow grass, fescue grass and ryegrass.

    You can also get meadow turf, which is full of natural wild seed. If you wish to incorporate this into your garden, you can expect to pay about £25 per m2.

    The location of your property shouldn’t affect how much you pay for turf, as many of the best types of turf are available online with standard delivery rates. However, in some locations, you may be able to get a different type and pay a different price at a local garden centre or DIY store.

    Finally, you will pay different prices for your contractors, but £150 - £200 day is a good average to work from.

    Turf Prices

    Garden Size Budget turf (£2.40 p/m2) Average turf (£3.50 p/m2) Luxury turf (£4.70 p/m2) Meadow turf (£25 p/m2)
    Small garden – 50m2 £120 £175 £235 £1,250
    Medium garden – 250m2 £600 £875 £1,175 £6,250
    Large garden – 450m2 £1,080 £1,575 £2,115 £11,250

    Labour Costs and Timescales

    Laying the turf itself is the shortest part of the job – your main time is going to be taken up preparing the soil. This preparation will include removing any existing surface, digging down to a suitable level, preparing the existing soil and adding topsoil or soil improver before laying the turf.

    And many about turf specialists recommend you actually leave it for up to 6 weeks for the soil to settle between doing the preparation and laying the turf.

    Depending on the depth you dig down, the quality of your soil (and whether you need to add fresh, topsoil or soil improver), how much you need to rotavate or rake, and how long you leave the soil to settle before laying the turf, as well as your ground area, you could be looking at huge variances in your labour time and costs.

    As a very rough guide, you should allow around 60 minutes per m2 (without including time for the soil to settle, which could add up to 6 weeks to your project time) to prepare your soil adequately (note: this is by hand, not using a digger).

    With all the soil preparation already done, and with everything in place, a single contractor can lay around 100m2 turf per day. As such, you’re looking at a rough time of 65 minutes per m2, or 100m2 in just around a week.

    In terms of labour, a professional turf-layer will charge a higher rate for their services, but you will get the most knowledgeable people who will likely have encountered every scenario, meaning your particular garden should be within their skillset.

    Alternatively, you can go with a general landscape gardener, who will also have extensive knowledge of soil types, turf properties, ground issues etc. An added bonus of a landscape gardener is that they may be able to offer advice on better ways of laying out your turf area to complement your garden.

    Finally, you can hire a trainee labourer, who will come at a lower cost, but with lower experience.

    Labourer Type Knowledge of Turf / Turf-laying Complementary Knowledge Cost per day
    Specialist Turf-layer High Medium £150 - £200
    Landscape Gardener Medium-High Medium-High £110 - £180
    Trainee Labourer Medium – Low Medium – Low £75 - £100

    Supply Costs Only

    So, how much is turf? There are two costs to bear in mind when purchasing turf: the price of the turf itself and the cost of delivery. In respect of delivery, there really isn’t an average you can work from. It absolutely depends on the quantity and the retailer.

    If you’re buying in person from a standard DIY/garden shop, you will have no delivery charges, though there are logistical complications if you have a large garden and require a large quantity of turf. Buying individual pieces of turf from a shop does work out cheaper though if you’re only getting a small amount.

    Just bear in mind that the turf will dry out the longer it’s on display, so ask your retailer when their turf deliveries arrive and aim to collect yours on the same day.

    If you’re buying from an online DIY/garden retailer, there is often a minimum order amount, and a £20 - £30 delivery fee, so this doesn’t make financial sense for small quantities of turf.

    An alternative would be an online turf specialist – they will deliver the turf to you as fresh as possible (often cut to order and with quick delivery) and will have a range of turf types.

    Many have a minimum order quantity, but this can be as low as 10m2. With this method, there will usually be a per m2 delivery charge, of £1.00 - £2.50, with the lower delivery charge being applied to higher quantities of turf.

    The second factor to consider is the turf type. There are lots of varieties of grass, and they are grown in combination with each other to create different textures and looks. However, these broadly fit into two categories.

    Turf Type Purpose Grass Content Pros/Cons Cost per M2
    General Purpose Sports Pitches, houses with children, houses with pets, holiday parks, areas of high foot traffic, general landscaping. Dwarf ryegrass, fescue. Pros:
    ✔ Disease resistant
    ✔ Very tough
    ✔ Doesn’t require much maintenance
    ✔ Copes with various soil types
    ✔ Copes with most environments
    ✔ Copes with various mower types

    Cons:
    ✖ Not especially attractive
    £2.40 - £3.50
    Ornamental Bowling greens, golf greens, ornamental lawns. Dwarf rye, fescue, smooth stalked meadow grass. Pros:
    ✔ Copes with very short mows
    ✔ Looks stunning
    ✔ Great for precise sports (golf, bowls)

    Cons:
    ✖ Requires constant maintenance
    ✖ Not very tough
    £4.80 - £6.90

    You should bear in mind when you buy turf that it should come from a reputable seller who works to the Turf Growers Association standard (TGA).

    Additional Costs

    If you’re planning on laying the turf yourself, there are additional costs you should be aware of. Unless your soil is in tip-top condition, you’d be advised to purchase some high-quality topsoil to give your grass the best start possible.

    A layer of 15cm+ depth will give your turf the best chance of forming strong roots, but you don’t need this to be entirely topsoil – a mix with your existing soil will be fine, preferably at 2 parts topsoil to 1 part of your existing soil.

    Topsoil costs between £45 and £135 per m3, depending on the quality and quantity you buy. If you plan on growing a strong lawn which will look beautiful and last for years, higher quality topsoil will give you a much better chance of achieving that.

    All of this means that if you plan on laying turf over a 100m2 area, requiring a 10cm depth of topsoil (to mix with 5cm of existing soil), you will need 10m3 of topsoil. If you use the rough guide that 1 dumpy bag/1 tonne = 1m3, you’ll need 10 bags.

    If you require more than that, it may be cheaper to buy in bulk (e.g., a truck will tip the topsoil onto the ground outside your property, rather than delivering in bags).

    100m2 lawn x 10cm depth = 10m3 topsoil

    = £450-£1350

    If you’re looking to cut down on time, you may want to hire a digger to remove the existing turf/weeds/soil, as well as bringing the new topsoil across to the site.

    To hire a small, easily manoeuvrable digger, it will cost you around £200 for the first day, and £50 - £75 for each additional day, but it will work out cheaper overall if you need to hire it for an entire week.

    Before you hire a digger, do measure the access areas to your lawn to ensure you don’t damage narrow passageways, or sheds etc.

    While you’re setting up your new lawn, it can be an ideal opportunity to get other work done. If you want to get a new patio, a summerhouse, a new flowerbed or even a pond, now is the time to do it, so everything is in place prior to laying the new turf.

    It is well worth thinking about any jobs you may wish to complete in the next few years, as once you have paid for high-quality topsoil and beautiful turf, then hired a landscaper or spent weeks of your time, you won’t want heavy machinery or workmen damaging the grass – or worse still, digging up your new lawn to locate pipes and drainage!

    As well as future work on the garden, you may also wish to consider whether you will want to do future work on your house – replacement double glazing, external rendering, extensions, conservatories and roofing repairs are all likely to require either access via your lawn, or damage to it.

    With both house and garden alterations, it is best to complete all major work before laying your new turf – not only will this allow it the required number of weeks to root in without being walked on, but will also mean it is damaged as little as possible, meaning you get the strongest and best-looking lawn for your money.

    Cost Factors of Laying Turf

    Laying turf is like any other home and garden project – the amount you pay can fluctuate wildly. But you can potentially work out a rough budget if you calculate the cost factoring in 8 key factors:

    Size of garden: this is an easy one to get your head around. A 1000m2 garden will require a lot more turf than a 50m2 garden. But that’s not to say it will always cost more to have a larger garden – consideration of the other factors below will make a big difference.

    Type of Turf

    Your turf requirements will hugely affect the per metre cost of your turf. If you’re looking for quick coverage with no specific requirements, you can pay a lot less than if you want a turf that has a function, such as an ornamental turf or the very high maintenance fine turf used for golf greens and bowling greens.

    Quality of turf: It is the same with quality - a hardwearing, disease-resistant basic lawn will cost more than less well-bred basic lawn turf. A high-quality ornamental turf might cost you up to £6.90 per square metre, whereas at the other end of the scale you may be able to get a basic off-the-shelf turf for around £2.40 per square metre.

    Property Location & Ease of Access

    layturf1

    There are two key variables here. The first is the regional location – a more affluent area will likely charge more for turf than elsewhere, as well as increasing the cost of the skilled labour (see below).

    The second is the access to the location – locating the right kind of turf and then transporting it to a cottage on the side of a mountain in Wales will cost substantially more than locating and transporting it to a property in the suburbs of a city, where transport infrastructure and turf-growers are likely to be more easily accessible.

    Another definition of ease of access can be how easy it is to get from the nearest road to your garden – narrow country lanes, as well as narrow passages beside the garage, will all contribute to either your delivery cost or the time (and therefore cost) of your landscaper.

    Cost of Landscaper

    Research of landscaping costs across Britain shows that the daily rate can fluctuate between £100 and £400, or £15-£50 per hour. And this isn’t necessarily just your commonplace London mark-up – more affluent areas known for their greenery such as Surrey, or Cheltenham, are looking for a landscaper with more skills and experience, which when added to the higher living expenses of those areas makes for a big variance in cost.

    On the basis that a landscape gardener would lay on average 33m2 of turf per day, including all the preparation. That means that 1m2 of turf will cost approximately £3.00 to £12.00, with standard ground preparation.

    layturf2

    State of current garden: all the prices in this article have assumed one thing – that your existing garden is either already grass or another type of blank canvas which just needs digging, preparing, then laying.

    Your costs will go up with every additional challenge you provide to your landscaper: high/intrusive/dense weeds, concrete, existing structures for removal (old sheds, empty ponds etc.), lots of trees, poor soil etc. These will not only increase the number of days your landscaper requires to do the work, but may also result in the hire of more labourers, and potentially mechanical equipment as well.

    Timeline

    How quickly do you want the work doing? Someone who is happy to let a single landscaper work on their garden over the course of two weeks will pay considerably less than someone who wants four landscapers to work in tandem and finish the job in three days. If you’re looking to keep a tight hold on your purse-strings, a longer deadline will save you money in the long term

    How Much Work You’re Prepared To Do

    Finally, the more work you put into the preparation and turf-laying, the less it will cost you. If you’re willing to put in the work yourself and need only purchase the turf, topsoil and any equipment, you will save thousands of pounds, but at the cost of your free time.

    Even a little ground preparation can save you hundreds – dismantling the old shed, digging up your existing lawn, and lifting and removing old paving will mean your landscaper spends less time on your project, saving you money.

    Garden Size Quantity of turf Type & quality of turf (cost per m2) Total landscaper cost (approx.) Total
    Large 1000m2 £2,400 - £6,900 £3,000 - £12,000 £5,400 - £18,900
    Medium 400m2 £960 - £2,760 £1,200 - £4,850 £2,160 - £7,610
    Small 75m2 £180 - £518 £300 - £1,200 £480 - £1,718

    What's Involved in Laying Turf?

    Laying turf is a fairly straightforward task, so long as you complete each of the below steps carefully.

    1. To get the best from your new turf, you need to do thorough preparation of your existing ground. Take up all obstacles in the new lawn area – that may be existing lawn turf, concrete, patio slabs etc.

      If you’ve got a large garden, you can hire a turf-cutter or a small digger from a tool hire shop. Once your surface is obstacle-free you’ll need to dig over the soil to a depth of at least 15mm – this is both to break it up and to enable you to find and remove stones, weeds and any debris remaining from the ground clearance.

    1. Rake the area level, then walk over the entire area to firm the soil (though don’t use any heavy weights or machinery to compact it down). Keep raking and firming until the whole area is level.
    1. At this point, you should order your turf. Measure the ground as detailed above, then choose the appropriate turf for your needs and budget. Book the delivery for the day you wish to lay the turf, as it will take better the fresher it is.
    1. Lay out the turf around the edges of your lawn first. Make sure that the turf is in full contact with the ground underneath.

      Then find the longest straight side of the garden and begin to lay the strips of turf end to end, making sure the end of one roll touches the end of the next. Don’t stretch them though, as this will damage the roots.

      layturf3

      At the end of the row, turn and do the next one, trying to stagger the ends of the rolls, like brickwork. When you need to tread on the turf, use large planks of wood or turfing boards to spread your weight. Cut any overlapping pieces with a sharp knife, or a straight-edged spade/half-moon cutter.

      Once your new turf is laid, do not walk on it for at least two weeks – use the planks or turfing boards if you absolutely have to move across it.

    1. Water the lawn straight after laying it, ensuring it has soaked the turf right through to the soil underneath. You will need to do this every evening for at least a week unless it rains heavily.

      In dry weather, you will need to give it extra water. If you see any signs of the turf getting a bit dry, give it more water – the turf needs a lot of water in the first few weeks to root in.

    1. Your grass needs feeding as much as your plants do. You can buy specialist lawn fertilisers which will generally comprise equal quantities of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium.

      Little and often is best with your new lawn, and every four to six weeks is about right from March to October. Follow the instructions on your fertiliser packet for maximum effect.

    1. You want your lawn to be well rooted in by the time you mow it for the first time – this is usually at about two weeks if you haven’t walked on it and have been able to keep it moist.

      If you’re not sure whether your turf has rooted in, just gently lift it at one edge to see whether the roots are attached. Your first mow should be on the highest setting, and on subsequent mows, you can reduce the height until it reaches your desired level – never cutting more than a third of the height of the lawn in any one mow.

    1. Sit on your new lawn and marvel at how beautiful your garden looks.

    Can I Lay Turf Myself?

    Laying your own turf is a fantastic idea if you’re looking to save money. The risk of injury is fairly low, and with a simple lawn, you can achieve great results with a small budget.

    But this needs to be weighed up against the quality of the outcome you want, the timeframe, and the existing issues you’ll have to overcome.

    layturf4

    If you’re good at research and/or happy to get advice from the professionals, you should be able to work out what kind of turf you want fairly easily, and further research will usually find a retailer who can deliver it at a price you’re happy with.

    You can also find out how to lay turf following online articles, videos, or getting help from friends.

    What you can’t learn from a book or a blog is experience, and this is what you’re paying a professional for.

    A video can’t examine your soil and determine how best to improve the quality of it; a friend won’t be able to guide you on turfing around surface tree roots, and you certainly won’t find any articles about how to deal with the rusting radiator which is half-submerged in your pond.

    If you have any of these, or similar issues, you will be better at least consulting a professional before undertaking the work.

    If you don’t need to hire any special machinery, turf laying is a safe job – so long as there are no electrical cables or water pipes near the surface of your existing garden. A digger, pneumatic drill or turf-cutter require a bit more skill and precaution, but safety gear and care will make these much safer.

    There are no legal requirements, inspections or guidelines when laying your lawn, so it is up to you to make it level, even and safe.

    But doing sufficient preparation, purchasing the right type of lawn, and allowing enough time to complete the job carefully, will give you the best chance of doing a great job without needing to hire a professional.

    Alternatives to Turf

    Not everyone wants a lawn in their garden. The idea of the ongoing work that even a small lawn can entail puts many people off, and some people would rather fix a permanent structure instead of a living plant. So what are the alternatives?

    Decking

    layturf5

    This is a flexible outdoor flooring type, which doesn’t need to be used just for flooring. Decking comes in wooden planks, usually smooth on one side and grooved on the other – you can lay it whichever way you like, although the grooved side tends to add more grip.

    You can lay decking directly onto the floor (or on a bed of gravel), though the more contact it has with water, the sooner it will begin to rot. Most people lay decking onto either a concrete block-based (e.g. breeze blocks) or onto a specially made wooden frame. Both of these raise the level of the decking, keeping it drier and giving it a longer life.

    There are six common types of decking board:

    • Pressure-treated fir, protected by anti-rot and pesticide agents - this is low cost and can last for decades so long as it is regularly stained or sealed (every year or two).
    • Cedar – heartwood cedar (not sapwood cedar, which rots very quickly) will live for 15 – 20 years if annually sealed. This wood is beautiful and inexpensive.
    • Redwood – this is lightweight, strong, rot-resistant and easy for labourers to work with. Try to obtain high-grade redwood containing little sapwood, which is prone to rapid deterioration when outside.
    • Vinyl – recently available, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) decking is nearly maintenance-free and often comes with a 25-year warranty. There are also many colours to choose from.
    • Composite: This is a mixture of recycled polyethylene and wood-fibre, and comes in many colours and textures. You can also get it in shape so it can be laid in a pattern, and it’s very low maintenance: a good clean every three or four years will remove any mould living in the wood, and any good quality composite will come with a 25-year warranty.
    • Ipe – this is a very hardwood that comes from South America – it is so hard in fact that installation requires a lot of work, and this can increase your costs if you’re paying for a builder to construct it.

      Ipe needs sealing every year, so there is a small amount of maintenance, but it will then last for 25 years or even more. The cost of this wood will fluctuate as it needs to be imported, but beware cheaper versions which may have been provided in a non-sustainable way.

    Fir Cedar Redwood Vinyl Composite Ipe
    Cost(per m2)
    (approx)*
    £25.50 £40.50 £83.50 £80.75 – £102.25 £84.00 £129

    *This does not include any labour, such as installation charges.

    Artificial Grass

    This used to look and feel like an area of hard plastic spikes, which were unappealing on the eye and painful underfoot. But artificial grass has come a long way, and many types are now very close to natural grass.

    As with lawn turf, artificial grass comes in different qualities and with different properties – so before you start your research ensure you know how hard wearing it needs to be, how short you want it, what your budget is, and how easy you want the installation to be.

    The most basic artificial grass, which will be the slightly sharper, less natural-looking grass, will cost around £10 per m2.

    At the other end of the scale, a premium grass, which will look beautiful and may even come with a guarantee, can cost around £27 per m2. Hovering in the middle at £22 is the mid-range grass, which can vary wildly in quality and how realistic they are, so always get samples.

    Garden Size Quantity of turf Budget artificial grass Mid-range artificial grass Premium artificial grass
    Large 1000m2 £10,000 £22,000 £270,000
    Medium 400m2 £4,000 £8,800 £10,800
    Small 75m2 £750 £1,650 £2,025

    Patio

    layturf6

    Another alternative to grass is a patio. This is much easier to maintain, simple to clean, and if laid well, it will remain solid, level and weed-free for many years. There are four key benefits to having a patio:

    1. It can increase the value of your home – outdoor entertaining areas are very appealing to potential buyers and may add value, or at least kerb-appeal, to your house.
    2. It can increase your living space, giving the family an extra room in the garden. With some furniture, cushions and lighting, a patio can become a very comfortable outside living or dining.
    3. With the addition of a parasol or sail, a patio can provide a private enclosed space in the outdoors – all the fresh air, but protection from the heat of the overhead sun.
    4. Patios are low maintenance – you can clean them with a pressure washer, and if you buy high-quality slabs, they will be unlikely to fade, crack or crumble.

    Patios are hugely variable in cost, as the size of the patio, quality of finish, type of surface (concrete, brick, paving), size of brick/slab and design will all adjust your expenditure. You can go for a basic concrete patio, which might cost as little as £30 per m2, and will provide a highly durable and low maintenance patio.

    At the other end of the scale, a well-designed slab patio might cost closer to £75 per m2 but will give you a more refined look and more options in design.

    Gravel/Slate/Bark

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    A gravel, slate or bark area in your garden can give a more rustic feel than a neat deck or patio. The idea of using these is to have a softer outline, and you can even plant greenery, which blurs the edge even more.

    With each option, you will need to prepare a flat area for it – this will then need to be covered with a strong weed membrane to keep unwanted plants from growing through.

    All of these are usually bought in a dumpy bag, which holds around one cubic metre of whatever you’ve purchased. Generally, you want to have your gravel and slate at a depth of 5 – 10cm in your garden, whereas bark needs laying at 10 – 15cm as this will compact more over time.

    To work out the amount of each you will need, multiply the required depth by the square metre area to be covered.

    Small Garden(75m2) Medium Garden (400m2) Large Garden(1000m2)
    Gravel – 10cm depth £260 - £1,800 £1,400 - £9,600 £3,500 - £24,000
    Bark – 15cm depth £300 – £1,125 £1,600 - £6,000 £4,000 - £15,000
    Slate – 10cm depth £560 - £975 £3,000 - £5,200 £7,500 - £13,000

    Gravel can cost as little as £35 for a cubic metre for a basic shingle or limestone chippings. At the other end of the scale, a rose decorative gravel will cost £240 per cubic metre.

    Bark will cost between £40 and £150 for a cubic metre, the difference in cost being in the type of wood and the look of the chippings.

    Slate is between £75 and £130 per cubic metre. You can get variations in the size of the pieces as well as variances in colour, such as a blue, green or purple tone.

    Benefits of Laying Turf

    Adding turf is likely to add value to your home – your average family will have children or pets or both, so an area of grass in your garden is an ideal playing area for them.

    Grass also adds an area to relax and enjoy being outside. Plus, a particularly well kept, lush area of lawn is really appealing to potential buyers, who will pay much more for a house with a lawn.

    Turf is inexpensive – compared to the cost of artificial grass, a patio, decking, or even a layer of gravel, turf turns out to be much more cost-effective; and the larger the area you’re covering, the more cost-effective it becomes.

    Turf is a great natural way to make a living area on your land. Grass is a living, growing plant, and can help remove dust and pollutants from the air, much as many houseplants do inside your home.

    layturf8

    Turf makes an impact quickly. One day you have an area of plain soil, and the next you have an area of lawn. Compared to re-seeding a lawn, which can have mixed results at best, putting turf down ensures even coverage, the same type of grass, the same colour of grass, and a very speedy result.

    Turf is easy to lay and will last well so long as you do adequate preparation and really look after it for the first two months.

    And finally, it allows you to pick the kind of grass which is going to fit your life, your house and your lifestyle. If you have an existing lawn which is rough and hardwearing, but you’d rather have something more aesthetically pleasing and lush, adding carefully chosen turf will give you that result really quickly.

    Removing Turf

    Knowing how to remove turf is another key skill which may well come in handy. If you have a patchy lawn already, you may wish to replace the existing grass with a new lawn.

    Additionally, if you have a garden completely covered in grass, but you’re looking to remove some to make way for flowerbeds or seating areas, you’ll need to know how to remove it.

    Removing small quantities of turf is a job you can do without help and at no cost. A garden spade, slid a couple of inches underneath the grass, will take off that top layer of turf without too much damage to the underlying soil.

    If you have a larger area, you can hire a turf-cutter from your local tool hire shop for £50 - £100 for a day, and this will slice the top layer of grass off your lawn in big long strips, allowing you to roll them up for disposal.

    There are a few options when it comes to disposing of old turf, each with its own pros and cons.

    • It will make great compost, so long as it hasn’t been treated with a weed-killer. Whether you have an existing compost heap or not, just turn the pieces of turf over, grass side down, and stack them into a pile in a sunny corner of the garden. Over a couple of years, the grass will break down and provide a rich compost for your garden.
    • You may be able to dispose of the turf via your local council – check your local council’s website for more information.
    • You could recycle the grass and use it to add a feature to your lawn. A pile of turf, or soil with turf laid on top, will make a great raised bank in your garden, perfect for lying against in the sunshine.

      You could also make a living roof for your shed, though this needs to be done with care, so you don’t end up with a soggy and collapsed shed.

    • Hire a skip, or someone to take the turf away – a skip will cost around £100 for a small size, and hiring an individual to take the turf away will cost a similar amount.
    • A cheaper alternative may be to have the entire job completed by a landscaper – not only will you get a high-quality job done by a professional, but you will save the cost of hiring a turf-cutter, a digger and maybe a rotavator, and they will usually take the rubbish and old turf with them at the end of the job.

    Hiring a Turf Installer Checklist

    Create a checklist on what to look out for when deciding to hire a turf installer. What qualifications are needed, if any? What experience do they have? What’s their previous work like? Have their previous customers rated them highly? Are they part of any accreditation?

    If you’ve decided that you’d rather leave the job to the professionals, there are a few things you should look into before you hire a landscaper/turf-installer.

    • There are no qualifications required to install turf, so you can only judge the quality of your labourer’s work by what they’ve done previously. Ask to see pictures of their past work, and get comments from previous customers to find out how well the job was done.
    • Do they have any linked qualifications, such as horticultural degrees or landscaping courses? While not directly about turf-laying, they give a lot of information and context about soil, grass, etc., which would give that individual a big advantage.
    • How much experience does your turf-installer have? Are they new to this role, or have they been doing it for a while? Did they work as an apprentice, or assist more experienced landscapers and learn on the job?
    • What do they include in their work? Would they pay for all equipment/diggers/turf-cutters/skips etc., and include in their price, or would they add that on to the bill?
    • Are they just turf-layers, or could they offer guidance on other work you’re doing to the garden? Are they experienced enough to offer suggestions?

    FAQs

    What is the best time to lay turf?
    Autumn is a great time to lay turf, as the amount of outdoor activity will have substantially reduced from the summer, meaning your turf will have longer to rest undisturbed – likewise it won’t be growing quickly, so won’t need mowing while it beds in. It is also a cooler, wetter time of year, so your turf is less likely to dry out.
    When to cut new turf?
    It’s best not to mow for a few weeks, as this can stress the grass and even pull it up from its roots. Ideally, you want your new turf to have grown to about 5cm in length, and then you can start to cut it, beginning with your mower on it’s highest setting, and lowering the blades slightly with each subsequent cut.
    How often to water new turf?
    New turf needs to remain moist for at least the first ten days, and preferably two weeks. So if you’re laying your turf in autumn and it’s neither hot nor dry, you may only need to water every other day. But in warmer weather, or any dry spell, you need to ensure you fully soak your turf every evening, and top it up in the day time if you find parts of your turf are coming away from the ground, curling or going brown at the edges.
    When can I walk on my new turf?
    The longer you wait to walk on your new lawn, the better. You really want the roots to be fully attached before you walk on it, so if you’re desperate to take a stroll on the new lawn, carefully lift a corner of the turf to see whether it has attached to under the soil. Leave it at least two weeks before you do this though to give it the best chance of growing well.
    What is turf?
    Turf is defined as the area where grass and earth are held together by roots. In terms of horticultural turf, it will have been grown for a specific purpose, with specific qualities such as its look or how tough it is.
    How do I ensure my new turf grows well?
    The best method here is to be patient. Prepare your ground really well before you lay the turf, and some experts even suggest leaving your prepared soil for up to six weeks before you add the turf to let it settle and even out. Lay the turf carefully, then leave it as long as possible before you walk on it. Ensure you keep it well watered, and once it has bedded in try to keep it weed-free, and add fertiliser to it every 4 – 6 weeks over the growing season.

    Sources

    https://www.hirestation.co.uk/tool-hire/Building/Mini-Digger-Hire/110010/
    https://www.dandys.com/
    https://www.turfonline.co.uk/blog/what-does-topsoil-cost/
    https://www.topsoilshop.co.uk/buy-topsoil
    https://www.fieldcompost.co.uk/garden-services/bulk-high-quality-topsoil-delivered-loose/
    https://www.thelawnstore.co.uk/choose-correct-type-turf-lawn/
    https://www.thelawnstore.co.uk/choose-correct-type-turf-lawn/
    https://www.gov.uk/garden-waste-disposal 

    Last updated by MyJobQuote on 19th August 2020.

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