Step 1 - Prepare your bathroom wall

Measure the area of your wall and the size of your chosen tiles to calculate how many will be needed to tile your bathroom. Ensure the walls are sanded, cleaned, sealed and left to dry before starting.

To calculate: Wall area ÷ area of each tile = number of tiles you will need.

You should also allow an extra 10% for in the event of any damages and remember you will need to add gaps in between your tiles (2-3mm) for when you are re-grouting the bathroom. So remember to accommodate both of these points into your final calculations.

When it comes to tiling, the weight a wall surface can support may vary. Below is a guideline for the maximum weight each wall surface can typically hold per square meter:

• Plaster - 20 Kg
• Plasterboard direct (without plaster skim) - 32 Kg
• Plywood (WBP) - up to 30 Kg
• Tile Backing Boards - up to 50 Kg

You will also need to include the adhesive weight into this calculation; you can find this information on the adhesive package.

If you are using natural stone tiles, these might require sealant, so please check before you begin grouting. You can check this with your manufacturer.

Step 2 - How to arrange your bathroom tiles

You’ll want your tiles to be balanced and even when working out your design. If you are tiling a full wall, aim for a symmetrical pattern, and add the same length cut tiles on each edge of the wall.

To avoid smaller cut tiles, try to aim for as full as tile as possible when working out your tile design. This will give you the most aesthetically pleasing result. We will talk you through how to cut a bathroom wall tile shortly.

To create an even design, we advise you to create a ‘tile gauge’. To do this, simply get a wooden baton, or piece of wood, that’s over half the width of the wall you are tiling. Then place the tiles, with the spacers along the length and mark the points of the tiles along the bottom with a pencil.

Step 3 - Using your tile gauge

Measure the length of the wall, then mark the exact mid-point with a pencil. You can then use this point in correspondence with your wooden batten.

Slide the batten along the wall to see the gap at each end. If the gap is larger than half a tile, you can begin tiling there. If it’s smaller, shift your central mark by half a tile to ensure an even layout.

Next, mark the starting point of the first full tile near the skirting board, then use a spirit level to extend a vertical line. Repeat this process for the vertical axis by marking the midpoint and adjusting if necessary. Then, draw a horizontal line across the wall.

Finally, check for pipes using a detector and once the area is confirmed clear, secure your tile gauge to ensure it is placed precisely.

Step 4 - How to mix your tile adhesive

You can now start the process of installing wall tiles in the bathroom. Firstly, you need to prepare your adhesive. The type of adhesive you require will depend entirely on your wall surface type.

It’s important to stress that at this point, you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, then begin to prepare your mixture. You’ll need to take your drill with a mixing paddle, to create a thick paste, with no lumps.

Step 5 - How to tile a bathroom wall

Using a trowel and with your wood batons as a guide, start tiling your wall by applying enough adhesive to cover up to one square metre of the wall. Take the notched spreader and comb the adhesive across; this will ensure a full, even coverage.

Place your first tile along the batten. You will need to twist the tile back and forth slightly to really secure it to the adhesive. Then repeat the process, not forgetting to insert your spacers correctly to establish a consistent, even gap.

It's essential you are regularly checking that your tiles are level and flat, you can do this by using your spirit level. If they are not, you'll need to take the tile off and remove the adhesive with a trowel. Repeat the process, using the button as your guide, until the area is complete.

After tiling, remove excess adhesive from the tiles and grout lines using warm soapy water and a sponge. Let the adhesive dry as per the manufacturer's instructions, before removing the battens.

Step 6 - Preparing your tile edges

You need to measure the gap between the tile edge and the corner correctly. Make sure you allow for grout spacers into the calculation. For this stage, we are going to ask you to measure every gap because the wall might not be straight. Make a note of these numbers by writing them on each tile.

Step 7 - Cutting your bathroom tiles

There are multiple ways to cut bathroom tiles, but we would recommend using a tile cutter, as this will give you accurate results. Firstly, you'll need to mark up the cutting point correctly on your tile, use a pen and metal ruler and draw a line down the tile to indicate the point of cutting.

If you don't have access to a tile cutter, we have another method you can try. Take your metal ruler and put it across the intersection area and mark it up, do this on the front of your tile. Take your tile scribe and score up and down the line to the full length of the tile. Otherwise, you risk your tile snapping.

You should then place your pencil directly underneath the scored area of the tile. Apply pressure on this area to allow a clean snap of the tile. Taking extra care as some shards of tile could eject out towards you.

Please ensure at all times when you are cutting tiles to wear the correct safety equipment, goggles for your eyes and protective gloves.

Step 8 - How to tile into the edges

Before applying adhesive, we recommend you check your tiles against the spaces to ensure they fit correctly.

Begin applying the adhesive at the bottom of the wall, if this is too difficult to do with your spreader, then apply the adhesive directly to the back of the tile. Then press the tiles into position, as you did before. Continue to tile the remaining area, allowing room for your spacers to continue with your even gapping.

As before, wipe away any excess adhesive from the surface of the tiles using a soapy, damp sponge. If any adhesive hardens on your tiles, you could also try using a window scraper to gently remove the excess and being careful not to scratch your tiles. Follow your manufacturer's instructions on the correct setting time for your tiles.

Step 9 - How to grout tiles

Grouting is an important step when you need to tile a bathroom and due to being available in a selection of colours is also a way to compliment the design or pattern of your new tiling.

Before you begin, you should first decide whether you want to use powdered or ready mixed. If you choose to use powdered, then only mix up a small amount at a time, as the grout can dry quickly. Always refer to manufacturer’s guidelelines when mixing and remember to check the use the use by date.

Take a small amount of the mixture and apply to the tile using your spreader. Make sure you move it around to get it in the joints. Use large strokes, upwards and diagonally to ensure best results.

Continue with this technique to grout the whole wall. If you get any excess grout on your tiles, just be sure to use a warm, damp sponge as you go along and gently wipe. If by chance you remove too much grouting, use your finger to re-apply grout to the area.

You want to achieve a really professional finish; for this, you'll need a shaping tool (grout finishing tool). Use this over the grout, pull down over the jointing, it's vital you do this in a swift, continuous movement. Be prompt with this, as your grouting hardens quickly. Repeat this process between all of the grout jointing.

We now recommend you clean off your tiles, using a cloth to remove the powder substance from your grout. This will give you a professional-looking finish.

To really preserve the life of your grouting, we suggest investing in grout protector. Using this will protect your grout from elements such as water, dirt, oil, limescale and grease - although always check the label first.

Step 10 - Tiling around a window

Applying the same knowledge as in previous steps when tiling around the window area of your bathroom will ensure they are as equal and symmetrical as possible. Plan the placement of the tiles in the recess, matching up the grout lines so they correspond to those already in place on the wall.

Then you will need to measure the depth of the window recess using a tape measure. Please remember to only include the depth of the wall, and not the wall and the tile already in place, because you need to allow room for the trim edges later.

Measure each section where the new tiles will be placed, allowing space for grouting. Write down the correct measurements on your tile, draw a line, and cut the tile, just like before.

To cut the trim to size, you will need a mitre block, and hacksaw. Cut the ends at a 45-degree angle to allow for a neat join where the trims will intersect.

Starting at the bottom of the window apply the adhesive with the spreader, then place the trim along the edge. Then position the tiles accordingly, not forgetting to add spacers, reepeat the process until all tiles are correctly in place.

To stop the tiles from falling, cut wood to fit the window space, placing one horizontal beam and two vertical beams. Allow the adhesive to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Once dried, grout the area using the same application technique as before. Then wipe down the area with a damp cloth and use a shaper for a neat finish. Finally, polish the tiles to remove any powder residue. Your bathroom should now be complete!